Atc guide skinny ropes pro#
Atc guide skinny ropes trial#

What do I want? I thought something like the Alpine smart was supposed to be the magic bullet but I'm wondering if that's 95% marketing. Additionally, it'd be nice to have assisted locking on the lead belay. My main complaint with my current setup is how much drag there is using 2 fat ropes in guide mode if the anchor is a bit low or the stance is bad it can be difficult to give a good belay. I regularly climb in a party of 3 using two single ropes and like to use 'guide mode' to belay both followers concurrently. I currently use an ATC guide and climb on 9.4-10.2mm ropes. I've read 100 pages of MP posts over the past year about 'fatal' flaws and failure modes and bad documentation and random troubles and etc etc for most of the new era of assisted locking belay devices like the Mammut Smart, ClickUp, MegaJul, etc.

( /v/mega-… ) Also, am I going to need to try every shape of locking carabiner on the market before I find one that allows my device to work as intended with my specific ropes? (various threads on the Smart and Jul). What about the Kong GiGi + a GriGri? Are there hidden failure modes for the Gigi, because apparently as a consumer it's my job (not the manufacturer) to know the failure modes of every device on the market and then try to deduce if they could impact the device I own.

Only complaint is that is it can sometimes be a bit of a faff to keep the rope in the extra friction position while paying out in a hurry, but its quick and easy to get it back in place.Ok.

Used in standard mode I think it has more friction than the ATC but also has a funny T shaped projection to give extra friction which seems to work great with the thin ropes. That is rated down to 7.3mm and works pretty well.

Atc guide skinny ropes pro#

Since then I got a Gravel Master Pro belay plate. That seems to work ok but still marks the krab quite badly.

Atc guide skinny ropes trial#

After a bit of trial and error found it worked ok on an ancient 12mm round bar DMM HMS, and subsequently got a Wild Country Ascent HMS 12mm to go with it. Originally used it with an Edeleid HMS strike which I believe is the recommended krab for the micro Jul and it simply wouldn't lock off. Well it works but it really wrecks the karabiner its used with, and more worrying is really fussy about the krab its used with. Tested it a few times and decided no way I would use it in anger. Originally tried a bugette but quite frankly found it was even worse than my BD ATC Xp for friction. I looked at this last year for precisely the same reason. I also know there was the Petzl Reversino and the DMM bugette, but both seems to be discontinued (and the Bugette does not have a guide mode). I would like one that has the a 'guide' mode.